Food & Travel Guide to Costa del Sol, Spain – What to See, Eat & Do

Spain

There’s something special about the Spanish autumn – the sun is perpetually shining and the sky stays a soft powder blue. We enjoyed a dinner of grilled swordfish at Puerto Blanquillo sitting outside, which feels rare for autumn. When we went back to the apartment, it was 7.30 pm and the sun was still glowing tints of red and orange. The sunset was the latest we had ever seen at this time of the year, as if summer was still lingering in the air. But there were no crowds, just Malagueños walking their dogs or having a tapa with their vermouth. There’s just something about the Spanish coast in October that feels right.

NERJA

When I look back now, my photos of the Costa del Sol in November are snapshots of a Spanish summer holiday. But mostly, they’re memories of Nerja. We would walk along the promenade facing Playa el Salón and Playa la Caletilla, at a place pompously named the Balcony of Europe. There would be a band singing to the tunes of a Spanish guitar and the sea would be that perfect Mediterranean blue.

On our very first visit to Nerja, we did something that was unthinkably touristic – we ordered churros at a cafeteria thinking it would come with chocolate sauce. And when it didn’t, we ordered chocolate and were served the drink. It was only our third day in Spain and there were still rules we were trying to get our heads around. With a little luck, we managed to have churros on our second visit, this time at a churros cafe with proper chocolate sauce.

PESCADERIA EL ARTESANO

There’s a little seafood shop on Calle La Cruz in Nerja, barely 10 seats if you count the stools pressed up against the wall. There would be the freshest catch – large clams bundled up in nets, blushing prawns and slippery squids – all displayed on the ice bed in front of the counter. Juan would grill or fry whatever the sea decides to offer that day. One day, we would have little shrimps seasoned with rock salt and another, it would be a whole grilled turbot. Lola would bring us tinto de verano and with each glass, a small plate of crisp boquerones fritos would appear. There is always a queue especially close to 1 pm and everyone would hold a glass of wine as they wait in the balmy autumn. As for Roy and me, we would feel extremely lucky that we somehow reached just a little earlier than everyone else.

FRIGILIANA

In the subsequent days, we could not resist a trip down to Nerja or Frigiliana. Nerja was lively and sunlit but Frigiliana drew us back with its quiet charm and green terraces spilling softly down the hillsides. There was no end to the whitewashed houses that were so typically Andalusian. We would somehow find ourselves there just as the warmth of dusk wrap around us before dinner. It felt like a mandatory stop for us to savour the town in the beautiful light.

LA TRAYA

As a Cantonese, I have a certain fondness for rice. At one time, Roy confessed to me that he missed pasta, which was perfectly natural for a man who enjoys his bowl of noodles. But Spain suited me; I was content as long as there was rice. It’s no secret that the Spaniards love their rice. One night, my longing found its answer in a calderoso at La Traya. It was a bar that transformed into a restaurant late at night. There would be tablecloths and baskets of freshly baked bread. The señor brought forth a black pot steaming with rice luxuriating in an aromatic broth swimming with lobster, mussels, prawns and squid. We dipped in, spoonful after spoonful, until we were full and the only sensible thing left was to carry the rest back to our apartment.

LAS BARCAS

On the way to Ronda, we made a detour to the coast for chiringuito. That was how we found ourselves sifting through a flea market for woven basket bags and glossy ceramics. Lunch happened by the sea at Las Barcas where the waiter brought over vinegared anchovies and grilled sardines. Alas, there was no chiringuito because of the breeze. Later at Marbella, a quick glance turned into an hour – seduced by linen shirts fluttering in Yachtpur. I was eager to put everything on this day, mostly for practicality (they were all somewhat on the way to Ronda). I have to admit that we had overstretched our time and we were only on our way to the mountains close to evening. Thank goodness for the late sunset hour.

Food & Travel Guide to Cadiz, Spain – What to See, Eat & Do

Spain

Our first day in Cadiz started with a trip to the Mercado Central de Abastos. We had arrived at 2 pm, a time when even the most leisurely of Andalusian fishmongers were winding down and cleaning their ice beds that were once overflowing with seafood. Our hearts were set on Spain’s most famous prawns and luck was on our side as Mariscos Camilo still had ruby red carabineros. There were exactly two, as if they were waiting just for us. The fishmonger promptly directed us to Bar el Carrusel where a silver-haired man was moving with nonchalant ease in the kitchen, gently grilling the prawns with nothing more than a pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil. It was there when I realised that I could really fall in love with Spanish cooking.

FREIDURIA LAS FLORES

As the day unfolded, our hunger persisted and we couldn’t resist the irresistible aroma of olive oil sizzling away at Freiduria Las Flores, an institution for the thousands living in Cadiz. The fritura is legendary, from the deliciously fried squid tentacles and calamari to the crisp golden pescado frito.

CADIZ

After visiting the Gadir archaeological site, we went to Taberna Casa Manteca at the tapas hour. As foreigners, we could never tell the difference between tapas and a sit-down meal, or maybe we chose not to simply because tapas felt like a feast to us. The timing was, well, unfortunate—or perhaps perfect in its own chaotic way. Getting our names on the list was somewhat tricky as it seemed there was an unspoken rule that did not involve a queue. Somehow, we managed to inch our way in thanks to a Spaniard who was clearly well-versed in the ways of the bar. Once we were in, we were swooning over the tortillitas de camarones – golden wafers of little shrimps battered and deep fried – and the glossy millimetre-thin slices of belly pork. There never seemed to be an end to the tapas hour even after the last order bell had rung. It was as if time itself had surrendered to the rhythm of this Spanish ritual.

EL DUQUE

The most memorable part of our evening at El Duque was Jose. He didn’t speak a word of English and we only knew the mandatory “hola” and “por favor”—enough to get by on a holiday. But after a few animated gestures and plenty of smiles, he brought over plates of eggs scrambled with wild asparagus, partridge stewed with mushrooms and a roasted shoulder of goat so tender it fell away with a glance. Even with a dining room full of chatter and laughter, Jose had a way of making you feel like you were the only ones there. That’s what makes El Duque so special. They don’t just feed you, they let you in.

ALBARIZA DE LA TORRE

The weather had its own plans when we went to the sherry vineyards of Albariza de la Torre. The rain came and went, sometimes in long steady streams, other times leaving behind a flat grey sky. Manuel was adamant that the weather in Cadiz should be all sunshine, as it should have been in October. “You have seen our good weather, haven’t you?” He asked, expecting commiseration. We were just happy to be there eating and talking about sherry and sparkling wines. As is often the case with most Spaniards, the talk drifted to football. Manuel told us about the tortilla de patatas he would make specially for every Real Madrid match. There was his son who could have been the next Sergio Ramos. Naturally, he insisted that Spain should win the next World Cup. Unsurprisingly, Roy was all ears. The hours stretched on effortlessly as jamon, salmorejo and football carried us through the wet afternoon.

The whim of the weather smiled on us a few days later when we went to Jerez de la Frontera. The sun was in full force wherever we went, from the Alcázar to the town square. It was as if the weather remembered that it was supposed to be sunny Cadiz after all.

Food & Travel Guide to El Puerto de Santa María, Spain – What to See, Eat & Do

Spain

If there was ever a perfect itinerary for El Puerto de Santa María, it would go like this. Have a coffee at Bar Vicente Los Pepes and people-watch the Spaniards layer their tostada with olive oil and tomato. Go next door to the Mercado de Abastos de la Concepción to see the array of fish that had just been brought in from the port that morning. Look for Valeria behind the turquoise eggshell door of Horno Los Suspiros. She makes the best buñuelos and if you’re there during the Christmas season, the chocolate hueso de santo. At the end of the day, go to the Playa de La Muralla and watch the sunset behind the waves that crash onto the shore lined with colourful beach houses.