If there was ever a perfect itinerary for El Puerto de Santa María, it would go like this. Have a coffee at Bar Vicente Los Pepes and people-watch the Spaniards layer their tostada with olive oil and tomato. Go next door to the Mercado de Abastos de la Concepción to see the array of fish that had just been brought in from the port that morning. Look for Valeria behind the turquoise eggshell door of Horno Los Suspiros. She makes the best buñuelos and if you’re there during the Christmas season, the chocolate hueso de santo. At the end of the day, go to the Playa de La Muralla and watch the sunset behind the waves that crash onto the shore lined with colourful beach houses.