Food & Travel Guide to Madrid, Spain – What to See, Eat & Do

Spain

Our encounter with the much talked about Spanish hospitality was with Olga at her father’s restaurant. Asador Cristobal closed at 8 pm and we were their last guests of the day. It had been a long day of travelling from Seville so it was an unusually early dinner. Still, we were welcomed with open arms even as the tables were cleaned and set for the day after. We wanted to try the Segovia suckling pig which Olga’s father does very well, with only salt and water for seasoning. The rest lies in the magic of a wood-fired oven and a pair of watchful eyes. After the in my opinion superb suckling pig, we shook hands with Olga who left us with these parting words, “You are welcome back anytime. This is your house and I am your friend.” This was our first meal in Madrid and already we felt like we belonged.

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MADRID

We had a few days in the city, spending hours in the National Archaeological Museum which we highly recommend, shopping at the San Fernando Market where we had entrecote tapas style at El Rincón de Manolo and watching the sun set behind the Temple of Debod at the Parque de la Montaña. On the way to dinner, we caught a glimpse of the Royal Palace of Madrid through the trimmed bushes. It felt like the perfect evening, or at least it did with Roy.

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EL SENADOR

Everyone knows that an exceptional restaurant needs good food, but that’s only half the story. A good waiter is the other half. Our waiter at El Senador was Jesus. He would tell you exactly what to get: the tomato salad is very good, the lamb and pig as well. Don’t bother with the rest. We followed his instructions to the tee and he sent suckling lamb chops and the fleshiest tomatoes dressed with olive oil to our table. There is no denying what makes a good restaurant – it’s the waiter. They are the magic of the place.

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LA BARRACA

We met Carlos on our first dinner at La Barraca. It had been more than two weeks of wining in Spain and we were just not in the mood for wine but Carlos would have none of that. So he went to the back and brought out a glass of rosé to which we dared not say no to and happily accepted. After all, we were in Spain and we needed something to while our time away. The chicken and rabbit paella was quite the spectacle as Carlos gazed at the pan of rice adoringly like a proud father. We ended up falling in love with both the paella and Carlos, with the crème brûlée coming in as a close second.

We went for another round, this time without Carlos. The atmosphere was somehow different, although the paella marinera was just as amazing.

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Food & Travel Guide to Granada, Spain – What to See, Eat & Do

Spain

It had always been our intention to see the Alhambra and Spain, not the other way round. That was how, in the debate between North and South, Roy and I had arrived at one conclusion: We had to go to Andalusia. In this grand plan, we would go to the Alhambra on the way from Jaen to the Costa del Sol, stopping for a nice lunch at Granada which we heard had the finest tapas scene in all of Spain. But the best-laid plans often go awry. Having made the mistake of booking the Alhambra too late (a month before), we settled on just a nice lunch. Incidentally as it was Monday, most bars and restaurants were closed. After much walking in search of an open bar, our hunger eventually led us to Perla Negra where the atmosphere was friendly and the squid ink croquetas were unforgettable.

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THE ALHAMBRA

On the day we finally went to the Alhambra, we made the one and a half hours drive from the Costa del Sol. We reached at a decent hour of 11 am according to Spaniard standards. It was crowded but beautiful nonetheless and not at all disappointing. We spent three whole hours in the palace, starving the entire time but not willing to leave such a magical palace. By the time we were done, we were faint with hunger and glad that lunch only started at 2 pm. In such sweltering weather, there was nothing better to do than eat indoors.

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TAPAS

The very first time Roy and I had tapas was in Granada. It was a casual but lavish experience at bars which were decorated to the nines with hand-painted tiles and bottles of wine. We started with Casa Julio where we had delicate pieces of fried crab cakes and battered fish with what I call tomato sauce that’s a touch better than ketchup. Then we moved on to Cisco y Tierra. The waiter didn’t smile much but he would tell you what to eat: the most delicious Spanish mushrooms a la plancha with salt and olive oil. It was a dish recommended as there was no more asparagus. For once, we were glad that the asparagus ran out.

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Food & Travel Guide to Nimes, France – What to See, Eat & Do

France

I call Nimes the most Roman of all French cities. At every Boulevard and every Rue, there is an artefact of Roman history. Being a traveller of history, Roy had a plan: to see all of the Roman landmarks in Nimes. It was ambitious and we only had one day. I was trailing Roy as he went from landmark to landmark. From the Amphitheatre of Nîmes to the Tour Magne, passing by the Jardins de la Fontaine along the way. We had to climb up the cobblestoned stairs for a view of the city. Us in our flats and a perfectly coiffed woman in her stilettos. All the way I was following Roy, half arguing with him on whether we could make it to the Museum Romanité in time. I was certain that we would not. While I hate to admit it, Roy was right. We did ultimately reach the museum just as the doors closed at 6 pm and right before dinner, we saw the Maison Carrée along with its sparkling lights.

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LE CHABANAIS

When we were at Le Chabanais, there were plenty of cabbages and mushrooms. It was fall, a time for something wet and earthy. Everything on the menu was either a tapa or a drink, the former being obligatory. There we were, enjoying our tapas – brioche with candied wild boar, feta cream and honey-harissa; oysters and jambon serrano wrapped in cabbage; veal tataki with orloff sauce and chive cream; pita souffle with yogurt and chives – when we decide to have another look at the menu. As always, we ordered more than our appetites could afford. We were barely through with what was on the table when a hunk of breaded pork loin flavoured with chanterelles, currants and pickled pomegranates came our way. It took only a moment of greed for tapas to become a feast.

Days later, we were still talking about the oysters and jambon serrano wrapped in cabbage. A combination that tasted out of this world.

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