Food & Travel Guide to Nimes, France – What to See, Eat & Do

France

I call Nimes the most Roman of all French cities. At every Boulevard and every Rue, there is an artefact of Roman history. Being a traveller of history, Roy had a plan: to see all of the Roman landmarks in Nimes. It was ambitious and we only had one day. I was trailing Roy as he went from landmark to landmark. From the Amphitheatre of Nîmes to the Tour Magne, passing by the Jardins de la Fontaine along the way. We had to climb up the cobblestoned stairs for a view of the city. Us in our flats and a perfectly coiffed woman in her stilettos. All the way I was following Roy, half arguing with him on whether we could make it to the Museum Romanité in time. I was certain that we would not. While I hate to admit it, Roy was right. We did ultimately reach the museum just as the doors closed at 6 pm and right before dinner, we saw the Maison Carrée along with its sparkling lights

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LE CHABANAIS 

When we were at Le Chabanais, there were plenty of cabbages and mushrooms. It was fall, a time for something wet and earthy. Everything on the menu was either a tapa or a drink, the former being obligatory. There we were, enjoying our tapas – brioche with candied wild boar, feta cream and honey-harissa; oysters and jambon serrano wrapped in cabbage; veal tataki with orloff sauce and chive cream; pita souffle with yogurt and chives – when we decide to have another look at the menu. As always, we ordered more than our appetites could afford. We were barely through with what was on the table when a hunk of breaded pork loin flavoured with chanterelles, currants and pickled pomegranates came our way. It took only a moment of greed for tapas to become a feast.

Days later, we were still talking about the oysters and jambon serrano wrapped in cabbage. A combination that tasted out of this world. 

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Food & Travel Guide to Montpellier, France – What to See, Eat & Do

France

This is less of a food and travel guide and more of our time spent in Montpellier. A short 24 hours of bistro food, gothic buildings and oysters

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BROC CAFE

When we reached Montpellier, we were hungry. It was only 4 or 5 pm. Somewhere between lunch and dinner. I needed something sweet and Roy had to have his coffee. A cafe perhaps? It was the only agreeable place at that time. So we shuffled into Broc Cafe where students from the nearby university were enjoying frites, roasted camembert and wine. After a cappuccino and a chocolate cake with a side of cream, we decided to take a look around the city. As we were leaving, a teenager with tousled hair and gold-rimmed glasses was slicing bread for dinner. Next to him, the cooks were prepping the beef on the grill for their burgers oozing with Saint-Marcellin cheese. I knew there and then that we were coming back for dinner.

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COQUI THAU 

The real reason we went to Montpellier was because of oysters. Oysters from the Bassin de Thau. Coqui Thau was opened by Christian, the first generation owner of the oyster farm. On the day we visited the farm, his son Eric was out on the boat looking after the oysters at sea. A mid-morning pan of Bouzigues mussels was simmering a la brasucade. With the tang of the ocean mingling with the crisp cool air, Eric shucked the oysters so effortlessly as if he was paring an apple. My memory of raw oysters are those spritzed with fresh lemon. I had thought that that was the only way to eat a raw oyster. But that could not compare to the oysters “Nino style”, a recipe from their friend in Alicante which I had not been able to put a finger on. A drizzle of olive oil paired with something luxuriously pink made the oysters taste like heaven. 

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