Food & Travel Guide to Granada, Spain – What to See, Eat & Do

Spain

It had always been our intention to see the Alhambra and Spain, not the other way round. That was how, in the debate between North and South, Roy and I had arrived at one conclusion: We had to go to Andalusia. In this grand plan, we would go to the Alhambra on the way from Jaen to the Costa del Sol, stopping for a nice lunch at Granada which we heard had the finest tapas scene in all of Spain. But the best-laid plans often go awry. Having made the mistake of booking the Alhambra too late (a month before), we settled on just a nice lunch. Incidentally as it was Monday, most bars and restaurants were closed. After much walking in search of an open bar, our hunger eventually led us to Perla Negra where the atmosphere was friendly and the squid ink croquetas were unforgettable.

DSC04249_edited

DSC04250_edited

DSC04254_edited

DSC04259_edited

DSC04264_edited

DSC04301_edited

DSC04262_edited

DSC04270_edited

DSC04280_edited

DSC04284_edited

DSC04285_edited

DSC04291_edited

THE ALHAMBRA

On the day we finally went to the Alhambra, we made the one and a half hours drive from the Costa del Sol. We reached at a decent hour of 11 am according to Spaniard standards. It was crowded but beautiful nonetheless and not at all disappointing. We spent three whole hours in the palace, starving the entire time but not willing to leave such a magical palace. By the time we were done, we were faint with hunger and glad that lunch only started at 2 pm. In such sweltering weather, there was nothing better to do than eat indoors.

DSC04562_edited

DSC04566_edited

DSC04568_edited

DSC04580_edited

DSC04573_edited

DSC04589_edited

DSC04581_edited

DSC04584_edited

DSC04591_edited

DSC04594_edited

DSC04597_edited

DSC04600_edited

DSC04605_edited

DSC04607_edited

TAPAS

The very first time Roy and I had tapas was in Granada. It was a casual but lavish experience at bars which were decorated to the nines with hand-painted tiles and bottles of wine. We started with Casa Julio where we had delicate pieces of fried crab cakes and battered fish with what I call tomato sauce that’s a touch better than ketchup. Then we moved on to Cisco y Tierra. The waiter didn’t smile much but he would tell you what to eat: the most delicious Spanish mushrooms a la plancha with salt and olive oil. It was a dish recommended as there was no more asparagus. For once, we were glad that the asparagus ran out.

DSC04621_edited

DSC04613_edited

DSC04615_edited

IMG_6780_edited

DSC04637_edited

IMG_6782_edited

DSC04642_edited

DSC04646_edited

DSC04647_edited

DSC04653_edited

DSC04661_edited

DSC04660_edited

DSC04662_edited

DSC04664_edited

Food & Travel Guide to Nimes, France – What to See, Eat & Do

France

I call Nimes the most Roman of all French cities. At every Boulevard and every Rue, there is an artefact of Roman history. Being a traveller of history, Roy had a plan: to see all of the Roman landmarks in Nimes. It was ambitious and we only had one day. I was trailing Roy as he went from landmark to landmark. From the Amphitheatre of Nîmes to the Tour Magne, passing by the Jardins de la Fontaine along the way. We had to climb up the cobblestoned stairs for a view of the city. Us in our flats and a perfectly coiffed woman in her stilettos. All the way I was following Roy, half arguing with him on whether we could make it to the Museum Romanité in time. I was certain that we would not. While I hate to admit it, Roy was right. We did ultimately reach the museum just as the doors closed at 6 pm and right before dinner, we saw the Maison Carrée along with its sparkling lights.

DSC01172_edited

DSC01167_edited

DSC01171_edited

DSC01189_edited

DSC01180_edited

DSC01181_edited

DSC01199_edited

DSC01178_edited

DSC01176_edited

DSC01184_edited

DSC01195_edited

DSC01196_edited

DSC01204_edited

LE CHABANAIS

When we were at Le Chabanais, there were plenty of cabbages and mushrooms. It was fall, a time for something wet and earthy. Everything on the menu was either a tapa or a drink, the former being obligatory. There we were, enjoying our tapas – brioche with candied wild boar, feta cream and honey-harissa; oysters and jambon serrano wrapped in cabbage; veal tataki with orloff sauce and chive cream; pita souffle with yogurt and chives – when we decide to have another look at the menu. As always, we ordered more than our appetites could afford. We were barely through with what was on the table when a hunk of breaded pork loin flavoured with chanterelles, currants and pickled pomegranates came our way. It took only a moment of greed for tapas to become a feast.

Days later, we were still talking about the oysters and jambon serrano wrapped in cabbage. A combination that tasted out of this world.

DSC01205_edited

DSC01207_edited

DSC01211_edited

DSC01223_edited

DSC01208_edited

IMG_1884_edited

DSC01214_edited

DSC01226_edited

DSC01225_edited

Food & Travel Guide to Montpellier, France – What to See, Eat & Do

France

This is less of a food and travel guide and more of our time spent in Montpellier. A short 24 hours of bistro food, gothic buildings and oysters.

DSC00921_edited

IMG_5999_edited

BROC CAFE

When we reached Montpellier, we were hungry. It was only 4 or 5 pm. Somewhere between lunch and dinner. I needed something sweet and Roy had to have his coffee. A cafe perhaps? It was the only agreeable place at that time. So we shuffled into Broc Cafe where students from the nearby university were enjoying frites, roasted camembert and wine. After a cappuccino and a chocolate cake with a side of cream, we decided to take a look around the city. As we were leaving, a teenager with tousled hair and gold-rimmed glasses was slicing bread for dinner. Next to him, the cooks were prepping the beef on the grill for their burgers oozing with Saint-Marcellin cheese. I knew there and then that we were coming back for dinner.

DSC00902_edited

DSC00908_edited

DSC00910_edited

DSC00911_edited

DSC00912_edited

DSC00925_edited

COQUI THAU

The real reason we went to Montpellier was because of oysters. Oysters from the Bassin de Thau. Coqui Thau was opened by Christian, the first generation owner of the oyster farm. On the day we visited the farm, his son Eric was out on the boat looking after the oysters at sea. A mid-morning pan of Bouzigues mussels was simmering a la brasucade. With the tang of the ocean mingling with the crisp cool air, Eric shucked the oysters so effortlessly as if he was paring an apple. My memory of raw oysters are those spritzed with fresh lemon. I had thought that that was the only way to eat a raw oyster. But that could not compare to the oysters “Nino style”, a recipe from their friend in Alicante which I had not been able to put a finger on. A drizzle of olive oil paired with something luxuriously pink made the oysters taste like heaven.

DSC00930_edited