Having lived in Paris for more than a decade, ailurophile Lindsey Tramuta is well-versed in the ins and outs of the city and chronicles her Parisian life on her blog. She is a writer for Condé Nast Traveler, Bon Appétit, and The New York Times. Lindsey talks about why you should skip Chartier, where to get the best pastries in Paris, and about the museum you can’t miss.
Photo: Lindsey Tramuta
What do you feel defines Parisian cuisine?
Parisian cuisine today isn’t hemmed in by Escoffier, heritage or ethnocentrism but rather an openness to outside influences and cultures. The food scene has never been so refreshingly diverse.
What is the one local dish you feel travellers can’t leave Paris without trying?
As a pastry fanatic, I’m keen to cite a handful of exquisite desserts or treats. The chocolate and pistachio escargot from Du Pain et Des Idées, the Lily Valley from Carl Marletti, the ricotta cheesecake with seasonal fruit from Acide which is also available at Fou de Pâtisserie, the Ispahan croissant from Pierre Hermé, sablés from Bontemps Pâtisserie. As you can see, it’s impossible to narrow the selection to just one speciality!
What about your favourite restaurants?
Many of them are concentrated on the east side of town – Tannat, Le 52, Anahi, Le Richer, Café Méricourt, La Fontaine de Belleville. But I do have a few favourites elsewhere – Kitchen Ter(re) on the left bank and Balagan near the Tuileries Gardens to name a couple.
Café Méricourt. Photo: Lindsey Tramuta
Kitchen Ter(re). Photo: Lindsey Tramuta
Name one Parisian dining etiquette most travellers miss
Making a concerted effort to speak French, at least greeting restaurant staff in French. It isn’t all that difficult to show them you’re trying your best.
What is one travel tip you would give to travellers heading to Paris?
Go beyond the obvious. My book dives into so many other neighbourhoods that are worth exploring.
Name one best kept secret of Paris
The Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature. It’s in all the guidebooks and yet it never seems to earn the attention it deserves. It’s unusual, for one – it’s the hunting and nature museum. On top of that, it feels like a cabinet of animal curiosities. It’s fascinating!
What do you feel are the most common misconceptions about Paris?
There are two – that it’s a city that never changes and that Parisians are unfriendly. I’ve had plenty of chilly service in London and New York!
Photo: Lindsey Tramuta
Name some tourist traps travellers should avoid in Paris
Please please please stay away from Chartier off the Grands Boulevards. Go to Bouillon Pigalle instead. Chartier has terrible quality food, comically poor service, but because it’s an institution, it still gets traction.
What’s your favourite day trip to take from the city?
I love going to Chantilly for the day, walking around the gardens and visiting the Château.
What should travellers bring home with them from Paris?
Something French! The new gourmet food hall from Printemps department store, called Printemps Du Goût, offers a selection of 100% French products so you can be sure to take home something, whether it’s caramelised hazelnuts from the south of France or a small jar of regional honey, truly unique.
WHERE TO EAT IN PARIS
Du Pain et Des Idées
Where: 34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris, France
For: Chocolate and pistachio escargots
Acide Macaron
Where: 24 Rue des Moines, 75017 Paris, France
For: Ricotta cheesecakes with seasonal fruit
Carl Marletti
Where: 51 Rue Censier, 75005 Paris, France
For: The Lily Valley cake
Pierre Hermé
Where: 72 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, France (and others)
For: Ispahan croissants
Bontemps Pâtisserie
Where: 57 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris, France
For: Sablés
Tannat
Where: 119 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris, France
For: French fusion food
Le 52
Where: 52 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris, France
For: Tradtional french food
Anahi
Where: 49 Rue Volta, 75003 Paris, France
For: Argentinian food
Le Richer
Where: 2 Rue Richer, 75009 Paris, France
For: Bistro food
Café Méricourt
Where: 22 Rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011 Paris, France
For: Brunch
La Fontaine de Belleville
Where: 31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 75010 Paris, France
For: Breakfast
Kitchen Ter(re)
Where: 26 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris, France
For: Set menus
Balagan
Where: 9 Rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris, France
For: Shakshuka
Bouillon Pigalle
Where: 22 Boulevard de Clichy, 75018 Paris, France
For: French food
WHERE TO GO IN PARIS
Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature
Where: 62 Rue des Archives, 75003 Paris, France
For: Museums
