Travel

72 Hours in Folegandros – What to See, Eat & Do

Greece

It’s late May – the beginning of the tourist season – Folegandros remains low-key and positively empty. Donkeys still trot the craggy paths that meander throughout the island. The summer air is filled with the sweet scent of rosemary and oregano, wafting in from the herb gardens that belong to restaurant owners.

Some equate Folegandros to Santorini during its early days, before an airport was built and the tourists took over. The charm of Folegandros is exactly that – an unassuming island that has not met with the tourist mob. Or at least not yet. It is a refuge for those who simply want to kick back and take in the sights of the Cyclades, minus the noise. 

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THE BEACHES

A trip to the Greek islands is incomplete without a little sunbathing time by the sea, and Folegandros is loaded with remote beaches. A short ride in the island’s vintage bus will take you to Agali Beach, the most accessible of them all. Make a day of it when you’re there to soak up the azure waters. Quick bites and drinks are just a few steps away at the nearby cafés – a great way to power through your afternoon soak. The view from the bar and restaurant at Blue Sand Hotel is exceptionally breathtaking, and the perfect spot to watch sunbathers glowing red under the Mediterranean sun.

Katergo Beach is a pristine oasis with some of the bluest waters crashing against its shoreline. The fastest way to get there is by boat. Its seclusion is its biggest appeal, but that also means the sight of an eatery is not for another three miles or so. Pack your own food and drinks, and you’ll feel at home at a beach retreat.

Livadaki Beach is another of the island’s elusive beaches. Boats will take you there from Agali Beach. Otherwise, an adventurous hike from Ano Meria will take you through a steep terrain before you can lay eyes on this paradise. 

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THE SIGHTS

Spend your days wandering Chora, one of the three villages in Folegandros with the highest concentration of restaurants, cafés and knick-knack shops. Take a stroll through Kastro – a little hamlet in Chora – where you can see the way the Greeks live on this island.

The zigzag path up to the Church of Panagia promises some of the best views of Folegandros and its towering cliffs. As the sun sets, the sky darkens and Chora lights up for the night – the perfect view from the church.

Ano Meria represents the wilder side of Folegandros. Some of the longest hikes start off at this rural village that still retains the old donkey tracks. Hikes range from one to three and a half hours. 

THE FOOD

Local specialties include matsata, a type of handmade pasta cooked with rooster or rabbit in tomato sauce. The dishes at Folegandros is usually topped with souroto cheese, a locally produced white cheese that resembles feta. For more on what to eat here, check out the eating guide. 

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ROOMS WITH A VIEW

Perched beside the pathway to the Church of Panagia, Anemomilos Apartments is a three-room boutique establishment with the makings of a luxe hotel. Owner Dimitris Patelis first set foot in Folegandros and fell in love with its unmistakable beauty. In three years time, he transformed an empty land into a balmy abode that’s open to islanders in summer. Guests are treated to a homemade breakfast in the mornings and sweeping views of the open sea. Doubles start at €150. 

For the best bang for your buck, Aeri Folegandros Studios has rooms with views of Chora set against the backdrop of the ocean. Doubles start at €90 – each spacious room has a living area and balcony. 

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The 24 Hour Guide to Eating in Johannesburg, South Africa

Africa

Johannesburg is inventing a new kind of cool. Years after its inception as a mining town, Jo’burg has gone through a major shift to become a modern day metropolis. The pulsating CBD streets – Rosebank and Sandton – are at one with a cosmopolitan and stylish crowd. The cuisine remains true to its culture, and mouthwatering game meats are a dime a dozen. But exotic meat is not the only thing on the menu – vibrant Sandton is thronged with international flavours (Thai, Japanese, Korean. You name it, they’ve got it). The arrival of a few hipster joints also adds an effortless cool to the busy city centre. 

Look forward to: Steaks

Proof Café 

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Where: 131 West St, Sandton, 2031, South Africa
What: Breakfast croissants
For: Breakfast

The hipster vibes are strong with Proof Café, with artsy patterned plates, wooden tables, and the smell of freshly brewed coffee. The black trimmed glass counter displays some of the best breakfasts you can get in Sandton – fluffy croissants neatly lined up in wooden trays. The buttery pastries are filled with something sweet or savoury, such as lemon meringue, vanilla crème, or bacon and eggs. Perk up your mornings with a cup of Proof coffee – they’re good at that too. 

Wang Thai

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Where: 163 5th St, Sandown, 2196, South Africa
What: Roast duck
For: Thai food

The menu at Wang Thai is for discerning tourists who know their way around Thai cuisine. The geang khew-wan (green curry) is crazily spicy in true Thai style. The chefs – Thai, of course – are unafraid to dish out the real thing, and the wait staff know a thing or two about reading the Thai names off the menu. Standouts include the roasted duck and phad thai. Oh yes, and don’t forget the hom mali rice. It’s the canvas that brings out the best of the other dishes. 

The Butcher Shop & Grill

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Where: Shop 30, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton, 2196, South Africa
What: Steaks
For: Beef

You know a steakhouse is genuine when they’re serious about their meats. Just look at the menu at The Butcher Shop & Grill – it includes a stern note that any beef cooked more than medium may result in something less than perfection. Skip the surf and turf and dive straight into the meats. Cuts such as ribeye, T-bone and prime rib are aged for 21 to 40 days. If you’re still unsure which cut to get, just waltz into the deli – the pride and joy of the restaurant. The butcher will know just what might tickle your fancy. 

Yukie Shaw shiseido parlour

Tokyo Travel Tips from Yukie, Blogger of Tokyo Mode Addict

Conversations with Locals

You would know Yukie Shaw from her UNIQLO/Rosebullet-esque getups and her blog Tokyo Mode Addict. This Singaporean-Japanese blogger has her roots in Japan and is a regular in Tokyo. Yukie talks about navigating the busy city, Tokyo’s best dry ramen, and a traditional teahouse you just can’t miss. 

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Photo: Tokyo Mode Addict

What should travellers know about Tokyo before heading there?

Rely on google maps with your life when in Tokyo! The city’s train map is as crazy as the people are. It really is best to have mobile internet when commuting in Tokyo.

What do you feel defines Japanese cuisine?

I would describe Japanese cuisine as homely. Considering that I was raised by a Japanese mother, I know that sounds like I am tooting my own horn. But the people there are gentle with their flavours. And no matter where you eat, you can feel a sense of pride on a plate.

What is the one local dish you feel travellers can’t leave Tokyo without trying? 

Abura Soba! Hands down. It is basically a dry version of ramen, and better!

What about your favourite restaurants?

Omotesando is the best area to find Tokyo-style café food with its Japanese-Western menus. I really miss sitting in a pretty cafe and having things like negitoro-don or a loco moco with friends over lunch on a weekend. Some of my favourites are Bills, BOWLS Café and Madosh! Café. 

What is a typical Japanese breakfast for you? 

Grilled salmon, soup and white Japanese rice! And it doesn’t get any better.

Name one Japanese dining etiquette most travellers miss

Do not leave your chopsticks poked in to your rice! It resembles as joss sticks in Japan, even for a short while. If you need to put your chopsticks down, place them back on the rests or on top of your bowl.

Name one best kept secret of Tokyo

There is a quiet and quaint breakfast/tea house in the middle of Nakameguro, called Yakumo Saryo. By reservation only. 

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Yakumo Saryo. Photo: Tokyo Mode Addict

Name your favourite local labels  

I do love young, modish brands like MURUA and The Dayz Tokyo.

Name some tourist traps travellers should avoid in Tokyo

Convenient stores. Try not to let them take all your money. 

What’s your favourite day trip to take from the city? 

I went on a drive to Lake Kawaguchi once with fellow blogger Andrea Chong, two hours away from the city. It was breathtaking!

Describe the perfect way to explore Tokyo

For me, it depends which season of visit. Japan’s obvious secrets glisten with her seasons. My favourite time in Tokyo is Christmas. Some of my must-dos are shopping around Ginza or Shibuya, going to restaurant that serves fresh winter produce, and taking a long night walk at illumination spots in Tokyo. 

 

WHERE TO EAT IN TOKYO


Aruba Soba
Where: 3-10-20 Akasaka, Minato, Tokyo Prefecture
For: Dry soba noodles 

Yakumo Saryo
Where: 3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro 152-0023, Tokyo Prefecture
For: Breakfast

Bills
Where: 4-30-3 Jingumae, Shibuya 150-0001, Tokyo Prefecture
For: Fluffy pancakes

BOWLS Café
Where: 2-5-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku 160-0022, Tokyo Prefecture
For: Donburis

Madosh! Café
Where: 5-28-7 Jingumae, Shibuya 150-0001, Tokyo Prefecture
For: Avocado dishes
 

WHERE TO GO IN TOKYO


MURUA
Where: TOKYO Solamachi, 1 Chome-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida, Tokyo 131-0045 Japan
For: Shopping

 

The Dayz Tokyo
Where: 〒150-0042 Tōkyō-to, Shibuya-ku, Udagawachō, 16−16
For: Shopping

 

Omotesando
Where: Jingumae, Shibuya 150-0001, Tokyo Prefecture
For: Tokyo-style cafés